In the early morning, a fresh breeze swept through Porto's narrow streets, carrying with it a quiet song from the city itself. I sat on a bench overlooking the cityscape, taking in the view, when a melody echoed in my mind—a refrain that seemed to be Porto’s message to me:
"Yesterday was, today is now,
And who knows what tomorrow might allow.
Today is good, and if tomorrow's not,
Rest your heart on mine, your spirit caught."
(lyrics from Demjén Ferenc's Tegnap volt)
In that moment, snapshots of the last two days started to flow before my eyes, each one like a vivid postcard.
One scene lingered in my mind—an elderly woman struggling up a steep hill, her worn steps slow and deliberate. On her head, she balanced a large woven basket, brimming with fresh fish, her hands full with heavy bags. As she walked, she and her load swayed in perfect rhythm, left-right, left-right, an effortless pendulum. Behind her, a tourist snapped photos eagerly, marveling, “Do people still live like this in Europe, in 2005?”
Then there was the early-morning figure of a woman at the train station, an unlikely reminder of the contrasts in the city. She approached a man, exchanged a few words, and together, they disappeared down a shadowy street. Moments later, she reemerged, adjusting her coat pocket, and moved to chat with someone in a parked car. A man trailed behind, lighting a cigarette, before vanishing into the underpass.
And there was him—the man who seemed to step out of an artist’s dream. In just one passing moment, he was near me in a friend’s company, but it was enough. He was striking, his bronze skin and sculpted features unforgettable. I thought, “Had Michelangelo met him, he might’ve named David ‘Juan’ instead.” He had that same timeless beauty: expressive eyes, finely carved features, a physique that seemed meticulously crafted. Just one encounter, and I felt I’d glimpsed something rare, like seeing a white raven.
Porto’s alleyways are their own world, where the salty air mingles with earthy scents. Here and there, older residents peer from their windows, watching the life unfolding below. When I smiled up at them, they smiled back. This simple exchange—the warmth of strangers—felt like its own kind of poetry.
And then there were the windows of Porto, each one telling its own story. I have a special fondness for windows; they’re like silent witnesses to life. A window reveals and conceals, with its own personality. Some are newly painted, others weathered, smudged with raindrops, or shimmering clean. They can be bright or faded, cracked or pristine. And yet, all windows share a bond: they gaze out at the world, while the world flows in through them. Life buzzes on both sides, always. Even when an elderly woman no longer watches from behind her window—when only emptiness remains—there is still life in the empty, like a spider in the corner of the frame.
The soul of Porto also lives in its tiny shops, each brimming with objects as old as the shopkeepers themselves. There were street vendors with fresh fish laid out, grandmothers cutting and cleaning under the morning sun. Waking faces, serene men sipping coffee, the scent of pastries, the click of shoes on cobblestones glistening with rain—this was Porto, the pulse of its mornings. Freshly laundered sheets hung out to dry in the breeze, a scrawny kitten shivered by a crumbling doorway, seagulls shrieked above, filling the air with an untamed symphony.
And, of course, there was the wine. There’s more I could say, but maybe it’s best to just let Porto’s charm speak for itself.
Here are 10 must-see sites in Porto to capture the charm, history, and beauty of this coastal Portuguese city. Each of these sites showcases a unique part of Porto’s culture and history. Enjoy exploring!
1. Ribeira District
This vibrant riverside neighborhood is one of Porto's oldest areas and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Wander through narrow, cobblestone streets, admire the colorful buildings, and enjoy the lively atmosphere along the Douro River.
2. Dom Luís I Bridge
An iconic double-deck iron bridge that connects Porto with Vila Nova de Gaia, the Dom Luís I Bridge is stunning by day or night. Walk across the upper deck for panoramic views of the Douro River and Porto’s picturesque skyline.
3. Livraria Lello
A must-visit for book lovers, Livraria Lello is one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, known for its intricate woodwork, grand staircase, and stained-glass ceiling. It’s said to have inspired J.K. Rowling’s Hogwarts library!
4. Clérigos Tower (Torre dos Clérigos)
Climb the 225 steps to the top of this Baroque bell tower for an incredible 360-degree view of Porto. Built in the 18th century, the Clérigos Tower is a recognizable symbol of the city.
5. Port Wine Cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia
Across the river from Porto, Vila Nova de Gaia is home to the city’s famous port wine cellars. Many cellars offer tours and tastings, where you can learn about the production process and sample Porto’s renowned wine.
6. São Bento Railway Station
One of the most beautiful train stations in the world, São Bento is decorated with over 20,000 azulejo tiles depicting historical scenes. Step inside to admire the artwork and the grandeur of this historic station.
7. Palácio da Bolsa (Stock Exchange Palace)
This 19th-century palace is known for its stunning architectural details and lavish rooms, especially the Arab Room, which resembles a Moroccan palace. Guided tours are available to appreciate its opulent interiors.
8. Church of São Francisco
With its Gothic exterior and elaborate Baroque interior, São Francisco Church is a masterpiece. The gilded carvings covering the walls and columns are breathtaking, with almost every surface covered in gold leaf.
9. Jardins do Palácio de Cristal (Crystal Palace Gardens)
These peaceful gardens offer lovely views over the Douro River and the city. The landscaped paths, fountains, and peacocks roaming the grounds make it a perfect place to relax and enjoy the scenery.
10. Foz do Douro
Located where the Douro River meets the Atlantic Ocean, this coastal area has beautiful beaches, scenic promenades, and seaside cafes. Take a stroll along the waterfront and watch the sunset for a perfect end to your Porto adventure.
The Douro Valley is a dream destination for wine lovers, with its terraced vineyards, historic estates, and world-famous port wine. Here are 10 must-see wineries and places along the Douro Valley where you can experience the best of Portuguese wine culture:
1. Quinta do Seixo (Sandeman)
Located near Pinhão, this scenic estate offers one of the best views in the Douro Valley. Their wine cellars provide excellent tours, where you can learn about Sandeman's iconic port wines and enjoy tastings overlooking the valley.
2. Quinta do Vallado
One of the oldest estates in the valley, Quinta do Vallado is known for its red wines and modern winemaking techniques. The estate also offers a lovely hotel, combining luxury with rustic charm, perfect for a wine-centric getaway.
3. Quinta das Carvalhas
Offering some of the most spectacular panoramic views, Quinta das Carvalhas provides guided tours led by wine experts who delve into both the vineyard’s history and wine production. Try their wine tasting paired with local products for a full experience.
4. Quinta do Bomfim (Dow’s)
In the heart of Pinhão, Quinta do Bomfim is a family-owned estate known for its high-quality port. Their tour includes a walk through the cellars, a tasting session, and a look into Dow's rich winemaking heritage.
5. Quinta de la Rosa
A charming estate with riverside views, Quinta de la Rosa offers tastings and a restaurant serving local cuisine paired with their wines. It’s known for producing both table wines and high-quality port, making it a versatile experience for wine lovers.
6. Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo
One of the first wineries in the Douro Valley, Quinta Nova is located in a stunning spot along the river. It offers tours, tastings, and a wine hotel where you can immerse yourself in the vineyard lifestyle.
7. Quinta da Pacheca
Famous for its "Wine Barrels" hotel rooms—giant barrels you can stay in—Quinta da Pacheca offers a unique experience. Their wine tastings are comprehensive, covering both table wines and ports, and their restaurant serves dishes that complement their wines perfectly.
8. Quinta do Crasto
Known for its stunning infinity pool overlooking the valley, Quinta do Crasto is a historic winery with a focus on high-quality red wines. The estate offers tours of the vineyards and tastings, where you can sample wines made from century-old vines.
9. Caves São João
This traditional port wine cellar in Peso da Régua offers a range of tastings, from ruby to tawny ports. The cellar has a cozy, rustic feel and provides a great introduction to the diverse styles of port wine produced in the region.
10. Six Senses Douro Valley
While not a winery itself, this luxury resort is an excellent base for exploring the valley. The Six Senses offers wine tastings, vineyard visits, and wine-related wellness experiences, all set in a beautifully restored 19th-century manor house.
https://www.sixsenses.com/en/hotels-resorts/europe/portugal/douro-valley/
HEY, I’M EDINA…
I was born with a wanderlust. For as long as I can remember, my world has been in motion. Whether it’s a small trip or a big adventure, the important thing is that something’s moving beneath me—be it puffing, rolling, chugging, flying, or floating. It could be a bike, a motorbike, a car, a bus, a train, a canoe, a boat, a ferry, or even a plane. And if none of those are an option, at least my legs keep me going. Every journey is a gift for my soul, even if it’s just a stroll through the fields or a visit to the next village.
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