There are certain experiences in life that stay with you forever, their echoes resonating in your heart and senses long after they have passed. For me, one of these defining moments was experiencing the vibrant and mystical atmosphere of Carnival in Galicia, Spain, during my mid-twenties. As a volunteer with Amigos da Terra (Friends of the Earth), I spent a full year immersed in Galician culture, and though nearly two decades have passed since then, the sounds, scents, and spirit of those Carnival celebrations still pulse through my veins.
Carnival, or 'Entroido' as it is called in Galicia, is more than just a festival—it is an embodiment of freedom, joy, and transformation. While I have since had the chance to witness the Kurentovanje in Ptuj, Slovenia, and the famous Busójárás in Mohács, Hungary, it was in Galicia that I first truly understood the enchanting power of this season. No matter where it is celebrated, Carnival has an undeniable magic that temporarily alters the very fabric of life, allowing those who embrace it to shed their everyday identities and immerse themselves in a world of music, dance, and playful rebellion.
Lessons from Carnival:Embrace the Moment
A Deep-Rooted Tradition:Galicia’s Unique Carnival Celebrations
The Magic of Masks and Ancient Rituals
A Once-in-a-Lifetime Experience
Let's look at it in more detail!
The Twelfth Night in Ourense:A Grand Beginning
Week-By-Week Revelry:The Stages of Galicia’s Entroido
Three Weeks Before Carnival Sunday: Domingo Fareleiro – The Flour Battle
Two Weeks Before Carnival Sunday: Domingo Oleiro – The Potter’s Game
The Thursday Before Carnival Sunday: Xoves de Compadres – A Battle of the Sexes
One Week Before Carnival Sunday: Domingo Corredoiro – The Wild Chase
The Thursday Before Carnival Sunday: Xoves de Comadres – The Women Take Over
Carnival Sunday: The Grand Celebration
Experience Galicia’s Entroido for Yourself
Carneval Traditions in Verín, Galicia:A Celebration of Heritage, Joy, and Indulgence
Xoves de Comadres – The Women’s Thursday in Verín
Orejas de Entroido – A Traditional Sweet Treat
The Grand Festivities: Domingo, Luns, and Martes de Entroido
The Queen’s Procession and the Night of Revelry
Why Experience the Carnival of Verín?
Laza:A Battle of Fire, Mud, and Chaos
Viana do Bolo:The Pulse of the Drums
Vilariño de Conso:The Sound of the Ancestors
Ash Wednesday: The Sardine’s Funeral in Ourense
A Journey into the Heart of Galicia
The Enchanting World of Galician Entroido: A Journey Through Spain’s Most Unique Carnival2025
What Makes the Entroido of Galicia So Special?
Xinzo de Limia: Spain’s Longest Carnival
Laza and Verín: Wild and Mystical Traditions
What can Carnival teach us? First and foremost, it is a celebration of presence. For a few days, you are encouraged to let go—forget where you come from, stop worrying about where you are going, and simply exist in the now. Whether you don a mask or remove one, Carnival gives you the freedom to become whoever you want to be. It invites you to play like a child, feel the rhythm in your soul, and dance with reckless abandon.
Laugh, move, surrender to the pulse of the celebration, and allow the energy to lift your spirits. Chase away the darkness, welcome the light, and call forth the arrival of spring. This is the essence of Carnival.
Galicia has a rich and deeply ingrained Carnival tradition that sweeps through its villages and cities with an infectious energy. The preparations begin as early as January, building anticipation for nearly two months of revelry. By the time the festivities officially commence on Epiphany and continue until Ash Wednesday, the entire region is alive with an unparalleled vibrancy.
One of the most renowned Carnival destinations in Galicia is Xinzo de Limia, where the festivities stretch across five weeks, making it one of the longest and most celebrated Carnivals in Spain. Other notable locations include Ourense, Laza, Castro de Laza, Verín, Maceda, Vilariño de Conso, Viana do Bolo, Vilaboa, Manzaneda, and Ulla, each offering its own unique take on the festivities.
For those seeking to reconnect with their inner child, escape the stress of daily life, and experience pure, unfiltered joy, Galicia’s Carnival is the perfect destination. To truly embrace the spirit of the celebration, bring along your oldest clothes—ones you don’t mind getting dirty—because Carnival in Galicia is a full-contact experience. Wear a comfortable costume, dive into the heart of the parades, and participate in every event possible. If you do, you will emerge transformed, as though reborn into a world filled with laughter, music, and boundless energy.
Carnival in Galicia is not only a time of celebration but also a deep-rooted tradition tied to ancient rituals. One of the most captivating aspects of Entroido is the presence of masked figures, each with its own symbolic meaning. In Laza, the enigmatic "Peliqueiros" roam the streets in striking costumes, wielding whips and bells, representing figures of power and mischief. Meanwhile, in Verín, the "Cigarróns" don elaborate wooden masks and richly embroidered outfits, maintaining a centuries-old tradition that has been passed down through generations.
These masked characters add an air of mysticism to the celebrations, reminding us that Carnival is more than just an excuse for revelry—it is a link to the past, a bridge between history and modern-day joy. As the rhythmic sound of drums fills the air and firecrackers illuminate the night sky, one cannot help but feel a deep connection to those who danced through these streets long before us.
If you ever have the chance to witness Entroido in Galicia, seize the opportunity without hesitation. It is an experience that will awaken your senses, ignite your imagination, and leave you with memories that will last a lifetime. The spirit of Carnival is contagious—once it touches your soul, you will find yourself longing to return, year after year.
Galicia’s Carnival is more than just a festival; it is an invitation to break free, to dance through the streets without a care, and to revel in the beauty of being alive. And once you have experienced its magic, it will stay with you forever.
As winter lingers and the post-holiday lull sets in, a spark of excitement ignites the streets of Galicia. The region, nestled in Spain’s northwestern corner, awakens to the rhythm of Entroido—a carnival celebration unlike any other. With a rich history, dazzling costumes, mischievous traditions, and endless revelry, Galicia's carnival is an unmissable spectacle, where the past and present collide in a whirlwind of laughter, flour fights, and masquerades.
The magic of Entroido officially kicks off on Día de Reyes (Epiphany) in Ourense. The arrival of the Three Kings—Gaspar, Melchior, and Balthazar—is met with joyous cheers from the crowds. Children squeal with delight as the kings throw sweets from their grand parade floats, while the city dresses in its most festive colors. The air is thick with excitement, and from this moment on, Ourense is abuzz with preparations for the weeks of carnival chaos ahead.
As Christmas decorations disappear from store shelves, a new spectacle emerges—costumes, wigs, masks, and elaborate disguises. The entire city is transformed into a carnival playground where people, young and old, eagerly search for the perfect outfit to embody their wildest alter ego. The countdown to Entroido has begun!
In Xinzo de Limia, the first great event of Entroido is Domingo Fareleiro, a chaotic and hilarious tradition where participants shower each other in flour. Originally a fertility ritual, this playful battle has evolved into a joyous, all-inclusive street event where flour flies in every direction. While the white clouds may seem like sheer anarchy, unwritten rules guide the revelers—no flour in the eyes, no throwing into cars, and no targeting windows (allegedly). Yet, by the end of the day, the entire town is dusted in a fine, powdery layer of festive fun.
The following Sunday, in a tradition known as Domingo Oleiro, participants gather in the town square, forming a large circle. A cart arrives, carrying fragile clay pots (cacharros), and the real fun begins. These pots—sometimes filled with wine, water, or flour—are tossed from one person to another. The tension builds with each throw. If someone drops their pot, laughter erupts, and tradition dictates that they must buy a round of drinks for their friends at the nearest tavern. The game continues, creating an atmosphere of suspense, camaraderie, and inevitable comic mishaps.
On this day, groups of men roam the streets in a bar-hopping parade, drinking, feasting, and reveling in male camaraderie. But the real spectacle is the ancient battle of the sexes. Women create effigies—stuffed dolls symbolizing their male counterparts—and try to burn them as an act of playful defiance. The men, of course, do everything in their power to rescue their symbolic selves and toss the dolls into water instead. In some villages, women must dress as men to enter the bars, further blurring the lines between genders in a mischievous nod to historic power dynamics.
The carnival chaos reaches new heights on Domingo Corredoiro, a day once notorious for messy, mischievous antics. In the past, young men and women hurled rotten eggs, mud, and even insects at each other, engaging in playful yet ruthless battles of wit and agility. Today, these wilder elements have faded, but the tradition of costumed revelry and town-wide merriment remains strong.
One of the most striking figures of this day is the pantalla—a masked character unique to Xinzo de Limia. Dressed in a white shirt, black trousers, a red or black cape, and a belt adorned with cowbells, the pantallas take to the streets, rattling their dried animal bladders to create a rhythmic cacophony. Their mission? To ensure that no one enters the town square without a costume. Those caught without a disguise must buy a round of wine for the pantallas, adding to the night’s infectious revelry.
One week after Xoves de Compadres, the tables turn. Xoves de Comadres is the women’s turn to rule the town. Echoing the previous week’s battle, they craft female effigies, symbolizing their male-dominated past, and prepare to burn them. Meanwhile, female-led groups take over bars, restaurants, and streets, celebrating their moment of power with feasts, wine, and unrestrained joy. The night belongs to them, and the laughter rings through the alleys of Ourense and beyond.
Finally, the pinnacle of Entroido arrives—Carnival Sunday. The streets explode in a riot of color, laughter, and energy. Parades roll through town, costumes become even more elaborate, and music fills the air. Every village in Galicia has its own distinct way of celebrating, but all share a common thread—an unwavering commitment to joy, tradition, and the vibrant spirit of Entroido.
In Xinzo de Limia, the pantallas lead the parade, their bells clanging as they weave through the crowds. In Viana do Bolo, the grand lardeiro—a life-sized male effigy—is hoisted onto a central post, awaiting his counterpart lardeira on the final day of carnival. The air is thick with the scent of traditional foods, from filloas (Galician crepes) to orellas de entroido (crispy carnival pastries).
Galicia’s carnival is more than just a festival—it’s a living, breathing time capsule of ancient traditions wrapped in a modern-day party. Whether you're getting dusted in flour, tossing clay pots in the square, or dancing with pantallasthrough the streets of Xinzo de Limia, Entroido invites you to let go of inhibitions and embrace the spirit of the season.
If you’re looking for a unique and immersive carnival experience, skip the usual tourist hotspots and head to Galicia. Let the energy of Entroido sweep you off your feet, and discover the magic hidden in the heart of these centuries-old traditions.
So, will you dare to join the revelry? Pack your most flamboyant costume, prepare for a whirlwind of laughter, and get ready to lose yourself in the spellbinding charm of Galicia’s carnival madness!
Nestled in the heart of Galicia, the town of Verín hosts one of Spain's most unique and lively carnival celebrations. The Entroido de Verín is a fusion of ancient traditions, vibrant street parades, and gastronomic delights, making it a must-experience event for those seeking an authentic cultural immersion. This carnival is deeply rooted in history and showcases the spirit of the Galician people, who joyfully uphold their heritage through music, dance, and revelry. Let’s take a journey through the highlights of this remarkable festival!
The festivities in Verín officially begin on Xoves de Comadres, the Thursday before Carnival Sunday. Historically, this was an evening when grandmothers, mothers, wives, young women, and female friends gathered for a feast, dressed in elaborate carnival costumes. Legend has it that during this special night, men were forbidden to set foot on the streets—anyone who dared would face playful but merciless retribution from the women of the town!
While times have changed, the playful spirit remains. Today, men actively join in the celebration, often dressed in extravagant, over-the-top feminine costumes. The streets come alive with men parading in miniskirts, fishnet stockings, padded bras, and flamboyant wigs. The sound of high heels clicking on cobblestones, combined with bursts of laughter and live music, sets the tone for the extravagant days ahead.
Of course, no Xoves de Comadres would be complete without a grand feast. Galicians are known for their love of food, and carnival meals are indulgent, hearty, and festive:
Among the most iconic carnival desserts in Galicia are Orejas de Entroido, or “Carnival Ears.” These golden, crispy pastries resemble delicate, paper-thin ears and are sprinkled generously with powdered sugar. The dough is simple, requiring only flour, eggs, melted butter, milk, citrus zest, and a splash of anise essence. Once fried to perfection, these sweet treats disappear as quickly as they are served!
The heart of Verín’s carnival unfolds over three days—Sunday (Domingo de Entroido), Monday (Luns de Entroido), and Tuesday (Martes de Entroido). Each day brings spectacular processions, live performances, and traditional carnival games unique to Galicia. The streets of Verín are filled with revelers donning intricate masks and historical costumes, showcasing their creativity and passion for celebration.
One of the most symbolic figures of the carnival is the Cigarrón, a masked character wearing an elaborately painted wooden mask, an embroidered vest, a wide belt adorned with large bells, and a whip in hand. The Cigarróns move swiftly through the streets, ringing their bells and playfully enforcing the spirit of the carnival. It is said that every household in Verín treasures at least one Cigarrón costume, passed down through generations as a family heirloom.
One of the most anticipated moments of the carnival is the candlelit procession in honor of the Reina del Entroido (Carnival Queen). In Verín, the title of queen is traditionally given to one of the town’s most beloved elderly women. Dressed in a flamboyant princess gown with bold makeup, she is escorted through the town by a jubilant crowd carrying candles, awaiting the grand opening of the carnival.
As the Reina del Entroido steps onto the town square’s balcony, she declares the festival officially open. The crowd erupts in cheers, music fills the air, and the town transforms into an open-air dance floor. Bands perform on outdoor stages, and the revelry continues until dawn, uniting locals and visitors in an unforgettable night of joy and tradition.
The Entroido de Verín is more than just a celebration—it is a sensory adventure. From the laughter-filled streets to the intoxicating aroma of Galician cuisine, from the rhythmic clanging of Cigarrón bells to the dazzling display of costumes, this carnival embodies the essence of Spanish festivity. Whether you’re indulging in local delicacies, dancing under the stars, or simply immersing yourself in the cultural heritage of Galicia, Verín’s carnival promises an experience unlike any other.
For those seeking mindful escapes infused with tradition, warmth, and community spirit, this carnival is a perfect destination. So, pack your most extravagant costume, prepare for nights of unrestrained joy, and let the spirit of Entroido sweep you into its magical embrace!
If Xinzo de Límia embodies the modern carnival spirit, then Laza and Castro de Laza are its ancient, untamed ancestors. The revelry begins early in the afternoon, when a cart full of manure is dumped onto the main square, doused in water, and used for an epic mud fight. As the participants clean off, the chaos only escalates—large sacks filled with aggressive red ants are unleashed, sending the crowd into a frenzy of stinging bites. Only after this trial by fire (or rather, by insects) does the celebration transition into the next stage: an all-out flour battle.
Among the swirling white clouds of flour, figures known as Peliqueirosrun through the crowd, cracking their whips. These masked figures wear intricate costumes: deep red velvet jackets with gold embellishments, short breeches adorned with colorful tassels, and large cowbells hanging from their waists. Their painted wooden masks, edged with cat fur, add to their mystique.
As the dust settles, another surreal tradition unfolds. The Elder of the Carnival arrives on a donkey, leading a cart piled high with smoked pig ears and snouts. A fierce battle ensues as the crowd fights to steal a piece—those who succeed are believed to have good luck for the rest of the year. But beware: the cart is protected by thorny branches and whip-wielding peliqueiros determined to defend their bounty. The day ends in a raucous night of music, dancing, and storytelling in the village bars, where locals recount tales of how these traditions persisted, even during the Franco regime, despite the risk of imprisonment.
On Carnival Sunday, the town of Viana do Bolo awakens to an overwhelming symphony of drums. Every single resident—men, women, children—dons a homemade wood-and-leather drum and marches in unison, accompanied by the extravagant Boteiro figures. These flamboyant characters wear meticulously crafted wooden masks adorned with colorful paper ribbons, sometimes weighing up to 7 kilograms. Their role is to clear the way for the procession, wielding wooden staffs as they dance and leap through the streets.
The drumming is relentless, powerful, and deeply immersive. As the march progresses, the intensity of the rhythm builds, and the sheer force of the pounding hands leaves many with bruised knuckles. Bloodstained drumheads are common—trophies of devotion to this tradition. But the pain is temporary, and the reward is an unforgettable sense of unity and exhilaration. The parade ends with a communal feast provided by the town council, featuring grilled chorizo, the unique paprika-spiced sausage with embedded pork ribs, and plenty of local wine.
Similar to Viana do Bolo, Vilariño de Conso’s Fulión parade carries the heartbeat of the region’s history. Each village has its own distinct drumming rhythm, passed down through generations. No two sound alike, and to the locals, this sonic fingerprint is as defining as a name.
The procession is led by the Boteiro, a guardian figure in a vibrant costume, who clears the path using a broad wooden club. The energy is electric, and the communal rhythm is believed to connect participants with their ancestors, evoking the deep-rooted traditions of Galicia’s past.
As the wild carnival season draws to a close, a symbolic farewell takes place in Ourense. Ash Wednesday marks the “Burial of the Sardine” (Entierro de la Sardina), a satirical funeral procession. A massive papier-mâché sardine is paraded through the city, followed by mourners dressed in black, their faces smudged with ashes. The procession oscillates between sorrowful laments and bursts of laughter as musicians alternate between funeral dirges and lively carnival tunes. Finally, the sardine is burned in the town square, marking the transition from indulgence to the solemnity of Lent.
With its final embers, the chaos of carnival dies down, and Galicia enters the 40 days of fasting and reflection. But the spirit of Entroido never truly fades—next year, the wildness will return, as it always has.
To witness Galicia’s Entroido is to step into a world where ancient customs and unfiltered revelry collide. These traditions are not merely performances for tourists; they are deeply woven into the identity of the region. The mud fights, the whip-cracking peliqueiros, the relentless drumming, and the final fiery farewell all tell the story of a people who honor their past with unmatched passion.
If you seek an authentic and immersive travel experience, mark your calendar for Galicia’s carnival season. Just be prepared to get a little dirty, a little bruised, and completely enchanted by the raw spirit of Entroido.
In summary as the cold grip of winter slowly loosens, Galicia bursts into life with one of Spain’s most extraordinary celebrations—Entroido. This deeply rooted carnival tradition is a mesmerizing blend of ancient customs, vibrant parades, and unrestrained revelry. If you are a traveler who appreciates immersive cultural experiences, marking the Entroido of 2025 on your calendar is a must.
Unlike the flamboyant costumes of Rio de Janeiro or the elaborate masks of Venice, Galicia’s Entroido brings forth a unique display of tradition, humor, and mystique. From Xinzo de Limia, home to Spain’s longest carnival, to the deeply symbolic festivities of Laza and Verín, let’s embark on a journey through the heart of one of Spain’s most distinctive celebrations.
Entroido is not just about dressing up—it is a celebration of identity, satire, and age-old customs passed down through generations. With origins that trace back to pre-Christian times, this carnival is an explosion of joy, chaos, and, at times, playful mischief. Masks and disguises play a significant role, as participants use them to challenge social norms, poke fun at authorities, and fully embrace the spirit of transformation.
The core of Entroido is its connection to the local people. Every town and village in Galicia has its own take on the festival, with traditions so deeply ingrained that even the youngest members of the community take part with enthusiasm.
A Five-Week Celebration: The 2025 Entroido Calendar
The heart of Galicia’s Entroido beats strongest in the province of Ourense, where towns like Xinzo de Limia, Laza, and Verín host the most anticipated events. This year, the festivities will stretch from early February to mid-March, making it the longest-running carnival in Spain.
The town of Xinzo de Limia takes great pride in holding the most extended celebration of Entroido, stretching over five weeks of non-stop fun. Here’s a glimpse of the 2025 schedule:
Laza and Verín may not extend their celebrations for five weeks like Xinzo, but their traditions are equally captivating. Laza’s Venres de Folións kicks off every Friday in February, setting the rhythm for the weeks ahead. The town is also known for its Peliqueiros—masked figures dressed in elaborate costumes who chase and entertain crowds.
Verín, on the other hand, is famous for its Cigarróns, a group of characters dressed in intricate costumes featuring bells and wooden masks, who energetically run through the streets, ensuring that no one escapes the spirit of the festival.
Galicia’s Entroido is more than a carnival; it’s a cultural phenomenon that embodies history, humor, and community spirit. Whether you find yourself covered in flour during Domingo Fareleiro, dancing to the beat of the Folións, or witnessing the symbolic Enterro da Sardiña, you will leave with unforgettable memories and a deep appreciation for Galicia’s traditions.
For mindful travelers, Entroido offers an opportunity to experience joy in its rawest form. It is a time to let go, embrace the unknown, and immerse yourself in the rhythm of a culture that thrives on passion and celebration. If you seek an escape that blends ancient tradition with vibrant energy, Galicia’s Entroido is calling your name.
So, will you answer the call?
If you’re considering traveling to Galicia for Entroido 2025, start planning early! Accommodations fill up quickly, and the best way to experience the festival is to stay in a local town where you can fully engage with the celebrations. Pack comfortable shoes, bring a costume, and get ready for one of the most exhilarating cultural experiences of your life.
Stay tuned for more travel inspirations on Essence of the Road, where we explore the world through mindful escapes and sensory experiences.
HEY, I’M EDINA…
I was born with a wanderlust. For as long as I can remember, my world has been in motion. Whether it’s a small trip or a big adventure, the important thing is that something’s moving beneath me—be it puffing, rolling, chugging, flying, or floating. It could be a bike, a motorbike, a car, a bus, a train, a canoe, a boat, a ferry, or even a plane. And if none of those are an option, at least my legs keep me going. Every journey is a gift for my soul, even if it’s just a stroll through the fields or a visit to the next village.
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