Every year, on the night of January 19th, the medieval town of Castro Caldelas in Ourense, Galicia, bursts into fiery celebration. The Festa dos Fachos, or the Festival of Torches, is an ancient tradition shrouded in mystery, blending pagan and Christian rituals into a spectacle of fire, music, and communal joy.
A Festival Steeped in History and Mystery
The origins of the Festa dos Fachos remain uncertain. Some believe it dates back to pre-Christian Celtic fire rites, meant to honor the sun and bring protection to the land. Others trace it to 1763, when a devastating plague ravaged the region, and fire was used as a purifying force to combat the disease. Legend has it that during this time, villagers reported visions of Saint Sebastian, who promised deliverance from the plague if they built an altar in his honor. To this day, a straw effigy of Saint Sebastian is carried through the town and offered to the flames in a symbolic act of renewal and protection.
A Fiery Procession Through the Streets
As dusk falls, the people of Castro Caldelas gather at the town’s ancient castle and main square, eagerly awaiting the spectacle. A massive straw torch, stretching up to 40 meters in length, is set ablaze and carried through the winding medieval streets. The air fills with the sound of traditional Galician bagpipes, tambourines, and church bells, as the procession moves forward, illuminating the town with its flickering glow. Villagers and visitors alike clutch their own smaller torches, creating a mesmerizing sea of fire.
Leading the parade is the straw effigy of Saint Sebastian, symbolizing both the town’s resilience and its deep-rooted spiritual traditions. When the procession reaches the main square, the grand bonfire is lit, consuming the torches and the saint’s effigy in a dramatic finale. The fiery glow reflects off the medieval stone walls, creating a mystical ambiance that transports attendees back in time.
A Feast for the Senses
No Galician festival is complete without food, wine, and music, and the Festa dos Fachos is no exception. After the bonfire reaches its peak, the celebration continues with a generous offering of freshly baked bread rolls stuffed with chorizo, accompanied by the renowned Ribeira Sacra wine, produced from the vineyards that line the nearby Sil River canyon. As the night deepens, revelers gather around for the Queimada ritual, a time-honored Galician tradition.
The Magic of Queimada
Queimada is a flaming drink made from aguardiente (a strong distilled spirit), sugar, lemon and orange peels, and coffee beans. The mixture is set on fire, and as the flames dance, a traditional spell-like incantation is recited to ward off evil spirits and bring good fortune. The sight of the blue flames flickering in the darkness, combined with the rhythmic chanting, creates a bewitching experience—one that feels deeply connected to Galicia’s ancient past.
Many claim that Queimada is an ancient Celtic tradition passed down through generations, though its official origins date back to the 1950s. It is believed that Galician emigrants, longing for their homeland, gathered during special celebrations and performed the Queimada ritual as a way to reconnect with their roots. These gatherings often included theatrical performances that revived old legends, spells, and mystical incantations.
The ritual quickly gained popularity, spreading across Galicia and becoming a hallmark of Galician identity. In 1955, Tito Freire designed a ceramic bowl and ladle specifically for preparing Queimada, cementing its role in cultural celebrations. In the 1960s, Mariano Marcos Abalo composed a spell-like incantation, now an integral part of the experience. Today, Queimada is more than just a drink—it is a symbol of purification, protection, and communal spirit.
Queimada is traditionally prepared in a fireproof clay bowl, using a strong distilled spirit called aguardiente, along with lemon and orange peels, sugar, and coffee beans. The mixture is set aflame, and using a ladle, the burning liquid is lifted high and poured back into the bowl, creating mesmerizing blue flames that dance in the darkness.
As the fire burns, the conxuro (incantation) is recited, invoking protection against evil spirits, witches, and other supernatural forces. The rhythmic chanting, combined with the hypnotic flames, makes for an unforgettable experience—one that feels deeply rooted in Galicia’s mystical past.
Ingredients:
(Or for a smaller batch: 1 liter of aguardiente, a few coffee beans, peel of half a lemon per liter, and 2.5 tablespoons of sugar per liter.)
Preparation:
In a large fireproof bowl, combine aguardiente, citrus peels, sugar, and coffee beans.
Light the mixture carefully, allowing the flames to rise.
Using a ladle, lift the flaming liquid and pour it back into the bowl in long, glowing streams.
Recite the Queimada incantation, channeling the spirit of Galicia’s ancient traditions.
Once the flames subside, serve in ceramic cups and enjoy!
Queimada is more than just a drink; it is a magical experience, a glimpse into the mystical folklore of Galicia, and a celebration of fire, community, and tradition. Would you dare to summon the spirits and taste the flames?
Mouchos, curuxas, sapos e bruxas.
Demos, trasgos e diaños,
espíritos das neboadas veigas.
Corvos, píntegas e meigas:
feitizos das menciñeiras.
Podres cañotas furadas,
fogar dos vermes e alimañas.
Lume das Santas Compañas,
mal de ollo, negros meigallos,
cheiro dos mortos, tronos e raios.
Ouveo do can, pregón da morte;
fuciño do sátiro e pé do coello.
Pecadora lingua da mala muller
casada cun home vello.
Averno de Satán e Belcebú,
lume dos cadáveres ardentes,
corpos mutilados dos indecentes,
peidos dos infernais cus,
muxido da mar embravecida.
Barriga inútil da muller solteira,
falar dos gatos que andan á xaneira,
guedella porca da cabra mal parida.
Con este fol levantarei
as chamas deste lume
que asemella ao do Inferno,
e fuxirán as bruxas
a cabalo das súas vasoiras,
índose bañar na praia
das areas gordas.
¡Oíde, oíde! os ruxidos
que dan as que non poden
deixar de queimarse no augardente
quedando así purificadas.
E cando este beberaxe
baixe polas nosas gorxas,
quedaremos libres dos males
da nosa alma e de todo embruxamento.
Forzas do ar, terra, mar e lume,
a vós fago esta chamada:
se é verdade que tendes máis poder
que a humana xente,
eiquí e agora, facede que os espíritos
dos amigos que están fóra,
participen con nós desta Queimada.
Owls, barn owls, toads, and witches.
Demons, goblins, and devils,
spirits of the misty meadows.
Crows, salamanders, and sorceresses:
spells of the healers.
Rotten, pierced logs,
home of worms and vermin.
Fire of the Holy Companions,
evil eye, dark enchantments,
scent of the dead, thunder and lightning.
Howl of the dog, harbinger of death;
snout of the satyr and rabbit’s foot.
Sinful tongue of the wicked woman
married to an old man.
Avernus of Satan and Beelzebub,
fire of burning corpses,
mutilated bodies of the impure,
foul fumes from hellish abysses,
moaning of the enraged sea.
Useless womb of the barren woman,
chatter of stray cats in heat,
filthy mane of a stillborn goat.
With this breath, I shall raise
the flames of this fire,
resembling that of Hell,
and the witches shall flee
on their broomsticks,
to bathe in the beach
of thick sands.
Listen, listen!
The roars of those
who cannot stop
burning in the firewater,
thus becoming purified.
And when this potion
flows down our throats,
we shall be freed from all evils
of our soul and every curse.
Forces of air, earth, sea, and fire,
I summon you:
if it is true that you hold more power
than mortal men,
here and now,
make the spirits
of our departed friends
join us in this Queimada.
Traditional Galician Drinks to Try
Beyond Queimada, Galicia boasts a variety of unique beverages that reflect the region’s deep cultural roots:
A Night to Remember
The Festa dos Fachos is more than just a festival—it’s a living connection to history, tradition, and the power of fire as a symbol of protection and renewal. Whether you come for the spectacle, the communal spirit, or the flavors of Galicia, this fiery celebration in Castro Caldelas is an unforgettable experience that warms both the body and the soul.
Would you dare to step into the flames of tradition and witness the magic of this extraordinary night?
Deep in the Galician countryside, in the small village of Sabucedo, another festival rooted in ancient tradition takes place: Rapa das Bestas. Every July, locals and visitors gather for this breathtaking event, where wild horses from the surrounding hills are rounded up, brought into the village, and skillfully tamed in a centuries-old ritual.
An Age-Old Bond Between Man and Horse
The Rapa das Bestas is believed to date back to the 15th century, originating as a way for villagers to care for the semi-wild horses that roam the Galician mountains. Each year, the aloitadores—brave and highly skilled handlers—wrestle the horses to trim their manes, check their health, and mark them before releasing them back into the wild.
A Thrilling Spectacle
The heart of the festival takes place in the curro, a circular stone enclosure where the horses and aloitadores engage in a test of strength, skill, and trust. Unlike traditional rodeos, no ropes or tools are used—only raw human determination and centuries-old techniques passed down through generations. The crowd watches in awe as the aloitadores work in teams, displaying astonishing agility and respect for the animals.
After the rapa (mane-cutting) is complete, the horses are set free once again, symbolizing Galicia’s deep connection to nature and the enduring relationship between humans and animals.
Celebrating with Food and Music
Beyond the curro, the village of Sabucedo comes alive with feasting, music, and dance. Traditional pulpo á feira (Galician-style octopus), empanadas, and local wines are shared, while folk bands and bagpipers provide a rousing soundtrack to the festivities. The atmosphere is electric—an unforgettable mix of adrenaline, tradition, and communal spirit.
In the coastal town of Ribeira, summer takes a playful turn with the Festa da Dorna, a unique and lighthearted festival that celebrates maritime culture with a hilarious regatta featuring handmade boats.
A Seafaring Celebration with a Twist
Held annually on July 24th, the Festa da Dorna pays homage to Galicia’s strong seafaring heritage—but with a distinctly humorous touch. Participants build quirky, makeshift boats from unconventional materials, often resembling floating sculptures more than seaworthy vessels. The goal? To navigate the waters of the Ría de Arousa in the most entertaining (and often disastrous) way possible.
Laughter, Creativity, and Competition
Teams compete for prizes based on their creativity, ingenuity, and ability to stay afloat (or not!). The regatta is a chaotic yet joyful spectacle, with onlookers cheering as boats sink, capsize, or miraculously make it to the finish line. The humor and camaraderie of the event make it one of the most anticipated summer gatherings in Galicia.
Street Parties and Seafood Feasts
Beyond the water, Ribeira transforms into a giant street party. Concerts, dance performances, and seafood feasts fill the town, as locals and visitors alike celebrate into the early hours. The festival embodies the Galician spirit—full of humor, resilience, and a deep love for the sea.
If you're planning to experience these incredible festivals, here’s what you need to know:
Getting There: Santiago de Compostela is the main gateway to Galicia, with flights from major European cities. From there, renting a car is the best way to explore the region. To reach Castro Caldelas, drive through the scenic roads of the Ribeira Sacra wine region, making stops at its breathtaking viewpoints and monasteries.
Where to Stay: For Festa dos Fachos, charming rural houses and boutique hotels in Castro Caldelas offer an immersive experience. Book early, as accommodations fill up quickly due to the festival's popularity.
Best Spots to Watch: The town's castle walls provide a panoramic view of the fiery procession, while the main square is perfect for being in the heart of the action.
What to Wear: January nights in Galicia can be chilly, so dress warmly. Wear comfortable shoes for navigating the town's cobbled streets, and be mindful of fire safety when carrying torches.
Exploring More: Before or after the festival, visit the stunning Sil River Canyon, take a boat tour between its towering cliffs, or explore the ancient monasteries hidden in the valley. Hikers will love the trails through Fragas do Eume forest, while beach lovers should head to the Cíes Islands, home to some of Europe’s most beautiful beaches.
Galicia is a land of mystery, tradition, and vibrant celebrations—immerse yourself in its spirit and let the adventure begin!
HEY, I’M EDINA…
I was born with a wanderlust. For as long as I can remember, my world has been in motion. Whether it’s a small trip or a big adventure, the important thing is that something’s moving beneath me—be it puffing, rolling, chugging, flying, or floating. It could be a bike, a motorbike, a car, a bus, a train, a canoe, a boat, a ferry, or even a plane. And if none of those are an option, at least my legs keep me going. Every journey is a gift for my soul, even if it’s just a stroll through the fields or a visit to the next village.
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